Archive for the ‘Travel Potpourri’ Category

Passport Where?

Friday, February 19th, 2010

Passport Where?

Passport Where?


On a whole, I’m pretty good at not losing/misplacing/destroying things. When I do, however, I don’t fool around with worthless objects like a pair of socks or sandwich (though I did lose a sandwich once, but that’s another story). Instead, I go big. You know, like the only expensive pair of sunglasses I’ve ever had or my car for a few hours in an enormous parking lot. I can now safely say those are all small beans compared to my little oopsy-daisy in Ukraine.

I deplaned and was standing in the immigration line waiting to be “inspected,” form filled out. I get to the front, say hello and the guy says to me, “you do it wrong. You must fill out departure side the same as arrival side (which makes no sense because I am arriving and not departing, but anyway). Go to back of line and do it again. While waiting the second time around I flipped through my passport looking at all the really neat stamps I have. “I should really make a copy of the whole thing, just to have it in case anything ever happens to this one.” Cue tragic foreshadowing.

Having been bumped to the back of the line, my taxi was ready to roll by the time I got through, which left me near running to grab my bag, meet the taxi driver and head into the city. I had my passport, a city map and a few other odds and ends in my hand. Normally I would immediately put the passport back in my money belt, but it slipped my mind in all the chaos. Also, it was nearly midnight and I was EXHAUSTED.

I take the front seat and begin to flip through the map trying to figure out where we’re staying while the guy I am sharing a cab with chats about I don’t know what with the girl who is sharing the taxi into town with us. I get to the hostel, grab my bags and head inside. As we’re registering to stay the woman asks me for my passport. I grab my money belt. Nothing. I dig through my pockets. Nothing. I flip through my pile of maps. Nothing. My passport is gone. Immediately I begin to rifle through every one of my possessions and run through what’s going to happen now that I have LOST MY PASSPORT IN UKRAINE. Definitely no Chernobyl tour, definitely not leaving on time in three days, possibly going to jail and maybe never surfacing again.

The hostel woman starts dialing numbers and talking to people on the phone. I have no idea who she is talking to. The police? The Consulate? Her mother? “I called my boss. He is coming.” I start wondering if he’s on his way to help or to kick me out. We sit in silence and wait. I re-check every pocket of everything I have ever owned. Still nothing. Just as he arrives I remember the whole “pile of stuff in my hands, flipping through maps while sitting in the car incident and inform the hostel woman that my passport is, in fact, in the taxi.

Just then the boss bursts through the door looking very concerned. He is accompanied by a broad-shouldered Ukrainian woman wearing a down vest, leather heeled boots and leggings. That is all. She heads straight for the kitchen and starts peeling apples for everyone while the owner decides to play a game of twenty questions with me. “So, where did you last see it? Can you empty your bag again? I have a car so we can search the streets all night if we have to.” The whole time I’m trying to get him to simply call the taxi company. . “Lets be absolutely sure first,” he tells me. Dude, I am totally absolutely sure.

He has me go downstairs with him and – by the light of his cell phone screen – we retrace my steps from the taxi to the hostel. Nothing. Why nothing? Because it is in the taxi and I am – at this point – certain of that. Finally, nearly an hour later, he coalesces and calls the taxi driver. They chat for several minutes before he surfaces to tell me that “he says it’s not there.” I am now getting agitated because I know it’s there and am questioning if this is some kind of deal where they say they don’t have it, I randomly produce a $100 bill and poof, it is found. “Tell the driver to come back here now and I will pay for his gas. Otherwise, you and I are driving to him and if it’s not there, then we’re driving to the airport and if it’s not there, we’re going directly to my Embassy.” He laughs at first and then sees that I am 100% serious.

Thirty minutes later the driver pulls up to the hostel shrugging his shoulders. I swing open the passenger door, reach down between the seat and the gearshift and produce – you guessed it – my passport. Relief. Everyone looks totally shocked and I finally realize that they think I have been acting insane the past two hours insisting that I do, in fact, know where it is. We head back into the hostel. I am completely exhausted but slightly overjoyed that I don’t have to spend the next several days proving my identity at the US Embassy in Ukraine. Hey, at least I would have been able to stare at a photo of Hillary Clinton, right?

Kyle Taylor

The Gassed, Robbed and Looted Train…Or…Eastern Europe By Rail

Wednesday, January 27th, 2010
The Big Bad Scary Train

The Big Bad Scary Train

Traveling always has its hiccups, especially when it comes to planes, trains and overnight buses.  Having survived the TransSiberian, however, I really felt that anything – literally anything – would pail in comparison.  I had wanted to take an overnight bus from Krakow to Budapest, spend a night in Budapest then carry on into Romania by bus from there.  Apparently, however, people only need to travel from Krakow to Budapest on Wednesdays and Saturdays because these are the only two cities relatively close to each other that have TERRIBLE transportation links.  Because of this bizarre anomaly I was all but forced to travel by rail (which – while more expensive, meant a good night of sleep and lots of fun compartments, buttons and gizmos to fiddle with).

It all seemed well and good until people started telling me about how this route (Krakow to Budapest) and our next route (Budapest to Bucharest) are “the most dangerous train routes in the world.”  Stories like “yeah, my friend was robbed at knife point” and “first they put sleeping gas through the window then came inside and stole $400 from my money belt, which I was wearing at the time.  WHAT?  A quick google search confirmed these stories and with that, I became incredibly paranoid.  Not wanting to be alone in this paranoia I decided to share it with my travel companion, who really really appreciated it (read; sarcasm).

How did we overcome this fear?  Oh well, that’s easy!  I’m writing this on the top bunk.  The window is closed despite the radiator having created a Sahara Desert environment inside.  We’ve frenetically sealed the window with duct tape, committed to not using the toilet at all, locked both deadbolts and strung a bike lock around the handle and through a D-ring that’s hanging from the wall (for this purpose, perhaps?).  I’ve evenly distributed my cash and credit cards among all of shoes, pants and coats and am wearing my passport in my money belt with is secured just below my neck around my chest.

I’m sure everything is going to be totally fine, right?  Right?

Kyle Taylor

A Day with Family

Monday, January 25th, 2010

My Ukrainian Family

My Ukrainian Family


Throughout my years traveling and living abroad I have sometimes passively and sometimes actively found or acquired “parents” and “family.” There are, of course, my birth parents. Then there is my “DC Mom” and my Belgian family from when I studied abroad and my Shanghai parents – Jim and Deb – from when I was living in China. Most recently, I acquired John and Lois as my London “LSE Parents.” Needless to say, having the chance to connect with an old friend and meet her “Ukrainian parents” sounded like a wonderful time.

As usual, it started with a two-hour mini bus ride, this time from Kiev to Chernihiv northeast of the city. It involved detailed instructions from Gretchen that included things like: “When you get off the metro, turn left and go through the doors and down the escalator into the station. You’ll go through a turnstile to exit. Once you’re out the doors, turn right. The first set of doors on your right is the entrance back into the metro, so walk past that. After that you should see a set of stairs going up. Take those stairs!” That is, it was an adventure.

Upon arrival we met up with her 14-year-old, 6 foot 2 host brother Aleksei who would act as tour guide extraordinaire. Gretchen had just set him up with an email address and the usual sibling bickering was happening. “No, you write the email and I’ll proofread it,” she said. “No, you jut write it. It will be much faster,” he countered. “But it’s YOUR thank you letter. YOU have to write it,” she reiterated. “But it’s hard and I don’t want to,” he pouted. “Oh, alright,” she coalesced. The only thing missing was some name-calling and hair-pulling.

After towning around and seeing the six million churches as well as a canonization in action my friend suggested we nip back to her host parents’ place “just to grab her bag.” Yeah right (in a very good way). Two minutes in the house and we’re all staying for dinner. I’ve also been invited to spend the night. I mention in passing that I’d like to see a village and ten minutes later we’re trudging through town to catch our bus to the village where the family’s Ukrainian grandparents grew up. I look like an American tourist. Meanwhile, Mom looks like she’s about to head down the catwalk in Milan.

Mid wander through the village we approach a farm and see a man waving at us. “Do you know him,” I ask her. “Oh yes, that’s my uncle. He lives here. He is also a communist, but don’t say that to him.” And the day just got way more interesting (as if it wasn’t before). We pop in to say hi, everyone is introduced, I stand there with a smile plastered on my face while they all talk in Ukrainian. After he gave us enough apples to feed a small country, we head for the cemetery and cow pastures to literally “watch the Cows come home” and come home they do. In fact, they march out of the pastures in a single file line, walk right through town to their house then “moo” until someone comes and opens the gate. Seriously. It’s remarkable. How come Ukrainian cows are so much smarter than American cows?

We get home just in time for dinner. I bring a bottle of vodka as a “thank you” without knowing Ukrainian tradition states that a gift of vodka must be finished completely with the guest present. Thank goodness I bought the smallest bottle! We talked about home and family, we picked on Aleksei, we drank vodka. And when it was all over we ate an upside down sweet apple cake thing that was simply divine. My bus departure time was fast approaching, which meant a quick – albeit sad – farewell with tidings of good luck, an open invitation and, hopefully, an adopted set of Ukrainian parents as long as my friend doesn’t mind sharing!

I love Ukraine.

Kyle Taylor